First Look: Christopher Kane Menswear Spring 2014
Christopher Kane stole a march on his competitors, releasing his menswear images twenty-four and a bit hours ahead of the other labels showing in London. Granted, we have a couple of men’s cruise collections bobbing around, by Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta (at the showroom presentation last week I saw a great ivory flannel pyjama shirt under a matching jacket. Very Gatsby) and Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy (lots of florals, camouflage, an excess of mandals I can’t really get behind). But they’re much bigger than Kane, at least for now.
This collection is a focussed 19 looks, the most outstanding of which featuring eye-popping Matrix graphics comprised of human faces. They’re in the same vein as those all-over printed menswear looks of the past few seasons, popularised by Tisci amongst others, but these feel different. They’re certainly more arresting – stopping you in your tracks as you click your way through a gallery of images.
In a season that promises something in the region of 100 menswear shows, that’s a gold standard. They, and the high buttoned shirts and strict suiting, have a whisper of New Wave about them. It’s a bit Kraftwerky chez Kane.
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