How do you define the here-and-now? Well, it’s tricky. In fact, as the Milanese collections unfold, it’s increasingly proving impossible. The contemporary is the untimely, said Roland Barthes – the fact he said it on a Gucci press release was quite something. What Barthes means is that the present is impossible to pin down – as soon as you say it, it’s passed.
If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, philosophers frequently question if it makes a sound. I pose you this: if we watch a fashion show, but it’s in the dark, did we really see it at all? Would be nice if such a question remained philosophical – but Thomas Tait decided to materialise it as an illogical staging concept for his autumn/winter 2015 show on Monday afternoon.
To avoid the publicity disaster of clashing with the 87th annual Academy Awards ceremony on Monday – at least, when it comes to the all-important column inch – the savvy designer Tom Ford (who, please remember, was once up for an Oscar himself) shifted his show to Los Angeles. He’d already decided to do it last October; he told me he was going to pack his front row with celebrities and have a red carpet laid out front.
Tom Ford is a man of his word, and of bloody-minded conviction. At about three this morning, GMT, he did just that.
I couldn’t watch the autumn/winter 2015 Marc Jacobs show – theoretically, I was on an early flight back to London to attend the memorial of Professor Louise Wilson. In actual fact, I wound up sat in the airport watching it unfold on a computer screen, departure delayed.
It was a great show. The kind you regret not seeing.
You sometimes get the feeling New York makes a meal out of its fashion week – a super-sized meal, in the grand American tradition. The city stages 300 shows, twice a year, in a week which crawls on for longer than Paris. Which in itself wouldn’t be a problem, only you question how much of it anyone really needs to see.
There hasn’t been much meat to get your teeth into this New York, but there’s been some gristle, the sort of stuff that catches in your gums and makes you pause mid chow-down.
Peter Copping wrote a heartfelt note included on every seat at his first Oscar de la Renta show on Tuesday night. That’s a fashionable thing to do, especially when you’re taking over a label: Nicolas Ghesquiere did the same a year ago, at his debut for Louis Vuitton. Of course, Copping’s circumstances were somewhat different: as he terms it, “things did not go according to plan.” Oscar de la Renta – the man – passed away before Copping had time to work alongside him.
However, Oscar de la Renta – the brand – lives on, with Copping at the helm. His autumn/winter 2015 debut was assured, if a little predictable. Then again, the latter was not just expected, but demanded.
New York Fashion Week Winter 2015: Growing up is hard to do, at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang and Jason Wu
Growing pains. How’s that for a take-away from the opening leg of the New York Fashion Week shows? On the one hand, it’s a decidedly positive thing. At least there’s fresh talent gestating here. Alexander Wang’s business was founded a decade ago this year; Altuzarra launched his first handbag, an obvious development to emerge since the designer sold a minority stake to Kering in 2013. Oh, and Jason Wu had fine jewellery (he’s done the bag stuff before), as he also bagged a major investor last year via equity firm Interluxe. He’s scouting real estate for his first Manhattan store.
When I bought my first flat in London in 2004, I fell in love with the garden more than the actual property. It was a one-bed flat in Stockwell and was pretty small – smaller, in fact, than the garden. There was gravel and raised beds shaped into a maze created by the previous owners, [...]
My Dad, a veteran of 30 years allotmenteering and who tends three plots in Liverpool, came to 35a the other day for a critical midwinter assessment. We stared at the patch where purple sprouting broccoli is supposed to be cropping in the next few weeks, and where there are a couple of very small cauliflower [...]
As we’re having a proper winter this year (it actually snowed a little in London this morning – though it didn’t stick), the indoor gardening campaign continues – and the list of things to do in January is long. And as it’s February tomorrow, on my allotment there will soon be crocuses and, hopefully, some [...]
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