Founders Rowley Leigh (pictured) and Charlie McVeigh cashed in on their not inconsiderable connections by sending out details of their proposed restaurant to friends and potential investors. As Leigh put it in the generous coverage provided by the Financial Times, in which he has a regular column: "A couple of cheques arrived at the lawyers' office, the first coming from my old boss at Kensington Place, Nick Smallwood. The trickle became a torrent and by the time the door was closed on potential investors, we discovered that we were 50 per cent oversubscribed. It was a sad afternoon when, with an air of unreality, I wrote out cheques for half a million pounds giving my investors some of their money back."

Now the avuncular Leigh is so busy shaking the hands and kissing the cheeks of those who front up to the pass in the middle of a busy service, he can barely sauce the rotisserie chicken with lemon thyme and garlic, or grill the Dover sole. I've heard of too many cooks, but this could be the first case of too many owners.

Le Cafe Anglais,  Whiteley's, 8 Porchester Gardens, London W2, tel: 020 7221 1415. Nearest tube: Queensway. Lunch and dinner daily.