Eat: Fishcake trauma in Notting Hill
Actor Anthony Hopkins was in the born-again Kensington Place restaurant in Notting Hill yesterday. No, he didn’t order liver and Chianti (he must get so tired of that joke). Instead, inspired by the display at the restaurant’s classy fish shop next door, his wife chose the dover sole, and he wanted the famous Kensington Place fish cakes. Hmm, problem. The fishcakes do no longer feature on the restaurant menu.
To explain, Kensington Place, for many years home to Rowley Leigh’s ground-breaking modern British cooking (and fishcakes), was recently taken over and refurbished by D&D London (formed by the two former principals of Conran Restaurants). The makeover has been inspired; reviving the tired Eighties interior into a glowing, lovely thing of style and substance, with cloths, candlelight, upholstered chairs, light and mirrors. But no fishcakes
So manager Nicolas Mori had to break it gently to chef Henry Vigar that what Hannibal Lecter wants for lunch, Hannibal Lecter generally gets. Vigar served the fish cakes, and everyone was happy.
In truth, Sir Anthony missed out on some of the nicest spring cooking to be had in the capital at the moment, as I discovered last night. Much of that substance comes from Vigar - previously with the talented Bjorn van der Horst at La Noisette - who cooks within the seasons with a light touch and an eye for freshness. An early spring salad with labne, pistachio nuts and herbs was so calendar-dated it could have had daffodils in it, and a sticky-wicky suckling pork belly with artichokes, wild garlic and black trompettes showed he can do the macho stuff just as well. Makes fish cakes look a bit boring, really.
Kensington Place, 201 Kensington Church Street London W8, tel 020 7727 3184
Famous folk ordering off the menu makes my blood boil - who does he think he is, demanding to be served fishcakes like a headboy ordering his fags around. If I ordered fishcakes would he make them for me too? As you say, it's not even like he knows what he's doing since there are so many other tastier options available. Aaargghhh!!!
Posted by: Gary | Thursday, 20 March 2008 at 09:49 AM
Interestingly, the restaurant manager at Kensington Place suggested to me that once the restaurant settles down a bit they may well introduce the idea of being able to walk into the fish shop and choose your fish, and then have the chef cook it for you. So perhaps Sir Anthony has done us all a favour...
Posted by: Terry | Thursday, 20 March 2008 at 11:36 AM
They seem quite nice in Kensington Place - I think they would make you (whoever you are) fish cakes too ( I dont think you have to be famous to get things you feel like in a restaurant -especially something so basic).
Its not the actor's fault that he was Hungry .........what is really irritating is how london restaurants advertise who eats in them - Normally as soon as they become famous for which actors eat in them the level of the food goes down.
Posted by: Rachel | Thursday, 20 March 2008 at 11:45 AM
i think gary you are being a bit unfair ... he had obviously heard of the famous fishcakes and wanted to try them ... so would i ... i like fishcakes and they are quite unpretentious as food.
once in a super little chinese place i asked for my favourite starter [very ordinary but not on the menu] and to my delight they made that for me ... i felt very honoured!
Posted by: wendywoo | Thursday, 20 March 2008 at 03:43 PM
i too think gary is being unfair. its not like he was demanded a very very expensive dish, lets face it you can get fish cakes from marks and sparks, he is a lovely guy and though he is famous is very down to earth
Posted by: tba | Thursday, 20 March 2008 at 08:59 PM