1. IN SEASON
For English asparagus, that's right now; from early May until the end of June. Growers are doing their best to extend this brief season with new growing techniques, heated environments and "improved" varieties, but I wish they wouldn't. Less is more.
2. IN ENGLAND
England's soil is still cold from the long winter, so something like asparagus grows relatively slowly and is in the ground longer, which naturally contributes to the richness of its flavour.
3. AS SOON AS POSSIBLE
The natural sugars turn to starch once picked, so every minute out of the ground is less flavour and sweetness. This, more than any natural superiority, is why English asparagus tastes so good in England – and why Italian asparagus tastes so good in Italy.
4. AS SIMPLY AS POSSIBLE
Save the fancy stuff for later, when you have pigged out sufficiently on English asparagus, and have moved on to the Italian and Spanish. Until then, just cook in simmering salted water, toss in extra virgin olive oil, or fresh, salted butter and eat.
5. WITH YOUR FINGERS
It is a shame to spear asparagus with forks, and cut it with knives.
Just pick it up and eat; which thanks to the reverse-snobbery vagaries
of English social life, you can do in the best of company.
6. CUT RATHER THAN SNAPPED
Rather than snapping the asparagus as
we were all taught to do, which just wastes some perfectly good
asparagus stalk, I now just cut the last inch or so off the end,
depending on the nature of the spears themselves. As for peeling, it is
rarely necessary, but chefs like it because they think it looks
elegant. If you agree, then peel an inch or so of the stalk – no more.
7. COOKED FLAT, NOT UPRIGHT
Step away from the wedding present
asparagus cooker now. Just cook them flat in a single layer in a frying
pan, so much more successful than struggling with a stupid asparagus
steamer.
8. GREEN, NOT WHITE
White asparagus, traditionally grown
underground in Holland and Germany, is now being grown in England for
the first time (in Herefordshire, available in Marks & Spencer,
£2.49 for 100 g). To me, it's a different breed altogether with none
of the flavour, but make up your own mind.
9. AT HIX'S CHOPPY
Mark Hix's St Enoduc asparagus with
hollandaise is right on the money - fresh, simple, seasonal and
delicious. Team it with the smoked De Beauvoir salmon, cured and smoked
in Hixy's backyard and still screaming with flavour and natural oils,
or go for the soft-boiled Gladys May duck egg with asparagus soldiers
instead.
Hix Oyster & Chop House, 36-37 Greenhill Rents, Cow Cross Street, London EC1. Tel: 020 7017 1930
10. WITH ROWLEY LEIGH'S PARMESAN CUSTARD
A recipe for which is helpfully published in the June 2008 issue of Olive magazine.
11. WITH SAUVIGNON BLANC
The only real problem with eating
asparagus is what to drink with it. Fresh asparagus makes most white
wines taste tinny, but you can just about get away with a citrussy,
tropical fruity New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
12. LIKE THIS:
The following recipe is the simplest and best way
to treat fresh green asparagus, thick or thin. A slice or two of crisp
pancetta wouldn't go astray, but you don't need it. It's just nice for
the cook to nibble on while you're getting ready to serve.
Asparagus with fried egg and parmesan
For two
- 12 fat spears of asparagus,
or 24 medium spears, trimmed
- extra virgin oil or melted butter
- 2 really good eggs
- sea salt and pepper
- parmesan for grating
Bring a wide frying pan of salted water to the boil. Add the asparagus and cook for 4-5 minutes. Drain while the asparagus is still bright and green, and toss in extra virgin olive oil or melted butter, sea salt and pepper, and pile onto warm dinner plates.
In the meantime, heat a little butter and olive oil in a second pan, and swirl to coat the base. Gently break the eggs into the pan, and cover with a lid. Cook over gentle heat for 4-5 minutes, until the white is perfectly set and the yolk is still gloriously runny.
Top the asparagus with a fried egg, a little freshly grated parmesan and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.
Asparagus fresh from the Farmers Markets - blanched; poached freshly laid duck egg sprinkled lightly with dukkah; drizzle of pomegranate molasses
OR
just chargrilled with home made lemon mayonnaise, eaten sitting outside on a lawn at dusk.
Love 'em.
Posted by: stickyfingers | Sunday, 11 May 2008 at 01:46 AM
Italian and Spanish asparagus are around before the English season. Afterwards there is only the airfreight stuff from Peru, best avoided.
Aspargus cooks surprisingly well in a microwave. Trim, lay flat in a pool of water, cover tightly and cook on full power for a minute or two.
Posted by: Charlie Hicks | Sunday, 11 May 2008 at 08:32 AM
Yes Green, Flat and as fat as possible.
Posted by: Birregurra | Sunday, 11 May 2008 at 08:54 AM
The best way to eat asparagus? Buy it direct from the farm less than two miles away. Cook until done but still has a bit of bite to the texture. Serve topped with a poached egg from one of your own hens (rescued ex-battery hens) in the back garden: the egg being laid an hour previously. Perhaps put a small amount of parmesan shavings on top & a little black pepper. Devour. Food of the gods.
And you can't get much fresher than that.
Posted by: wafflycat | Thursday, 15 May 2008 at 08:05 AM
Actually, give the wedding-present-asparagus-cooker a try (provided yours is a tall, thin pot with a drop-in basket). You'd be surprised how much better the tips taste when cooking nice, fat spears with it! The tips are more delicate, so they are steamed while the ends are boiled. Takes about 7-8 minutes, and voila - perfect asparagus!
Posted by: veggielover | Monday, 08 September 2008 at 04:50 AM