Three years ago, before "ethical" and "green" were in any way fashionable, and not very many people were thinking "who exactly stitched my clothes together?", the people at Adbusters were quietly raging at the injustices of the fashion industry.
Actually, they weren't that quiet. Vociferously against the use of sweatshops, they started the Blackspot campaign, which amongst other things, encouraged people to obscure offending brand logos with a black spot. But that didn't quite change the state of the industry. So they came up with their own shoes - an "anti-brand", if you will. And now over 25,000 people are wearing their "earth-friendly, anti-sweatshop and cruelty-free" sneakers and boots that sport a black spot instead of a brand name.
The factory they use is a Portuguese union shop which has been owned by the same family for three
generations: the working conditions are outlined clearly on the Blackspot site, which include working hours from 8am to 6pm with a lunch of 1.5hours, pay over the minimum wage, and unlimited free consultations with a doctor who visits the factory twice a week.
And the shoes themselves? First of all, they look good, so you won't be sacrificing style here.
There are two styles, the Blackspot Sneaker and the Blackspot Boot. Designed by the Canadian designer John Fluevog (not known over here so much, but a big noise Stateside), they're made using 100 per cent organic hemp; the sneaker's rubber sole and toecap are 70 per cent biodegradable, while the sole of the boot (the "Unswoosher", as they call it - see what they're getting at?) is made from salvaged car tyres. The red marks and white "anti-logo" are hand painted, the soles are stitched, and it's all carefully checked by the UK's Robin Webb of Vegetarian Shoes to make sure everything complies with vegan standards.
If you buy them directly from Blackspot online, they cost from $100 (Canadian) including shipping, but there are four independent outlets in the UK selling them, too, which is probably an easier option. All profits (aside from any mark-up the independent retailers may put on them) go back into the campaigns of Adbusters, the not-for-profit organisation that came up with Blackspot. (Have a look at their magazine, too, it's worth a read).
My only comment about this brand is that it was designed by a non-vegan. Fluevog makes and sells leather shoes at his Queen street store.
Kind of hypocritical in my opinion.
Posted by: Dino Salas | Thursday, 24 July 2008 at 05:53 PM
In my opinion you should be vegan all the way . Not half way. Anyways that,s a start. Good work I'blogged about it on my blog.
Posted by: Nathalie Brault | Wednesday, 30 July 2008 at 02:05 AM
waaaa???
how can a brand be anti-brand? this is the sneaker equivalent of "pop punk".
Posted by: guy | Friday, 01 August 2008 at 09:44 PM
A non-vegan designing vegan is GOOD, not bad. It's progress.
Posted by: Michelle | Tuesday, 19 August 2008 at 10:00 PM
brand or no brand, ethical options are always welcome
Posted by: Nadroj | Saturday, 06 September 2008 at 08:29 PM
Ha! I just thought.. is this a plant? As in, are you trying to see what we think of this kind of clear hypocrisy? Clever, if so. If not, cool shoes. Well, what is John Fluevog about? Does he support Adbusting? THat could be cool. Maybe you guys could hold design contests often for gear that can be bought online but made by adBusters only. Perhaps I could run that show or help to run it if already ongoing. Who knows about this? And by the by, we're on the newsstands in Aotearoa (New Zealand) too. Here sit I.
M.M.
Posted by: Miss.Madness | Friday, 12 September 2008 at 01:13 AM
An anti brand may not be the way to go about. after all, it seems to me like its just another way of differentiating your product from others. However, the production methods are commendable.
Posted by: OT | Saturday, 13 September 2008 at 07:49 AM
Just a second...if the black spot becomes popular, and everyone wants it, does it lose the moniker "anti-brand"? It's already pricey--what if demand drives the price higher? Doesn't it become just another must-have, status-lifting item for consumers to purchase?
Posted by: Lkristel | Friday, 19 September 2008 at 06:06 PM
i agree with the production methods being commendable, or what should be the 'norm'... however, the price tag (though it may be completely fair and justified) perhaps prohibits the product from its 'intended purpose' (to 'spread the word'?)... what if these were produced and marketed in a way that: 1. they promoted the REDUCTION of consumption (do you actually need another pair of shoes?... green materials or no, energy is energy and materials are materials and the more we transform from the planet, the more we consume), 2. was easily accessible to the general populace (non-adbuster readers ;)) and those that don't have '$100/pair' incomes (imho its kinda expensive), and 3. that they are recognized as a popular alternative to the big brands (perhaps making a new 'norm'), assuming you actually needed another pair of shoes... (i think this last one might require a major cultural shift in attitudes towards... i also think there are many, many more people who buy $30, $40, $50 shoes, than those who buy $100 shoes...)
how fluevog fits into the equation i'm not sure, but perhaps he can switch his whole line into something that follows the spirit of this project?!
... just a thought...
... that said, they are quite nice and i hope they come down in price so i can pick up a pair :)...
Posted by: hmmm | Friday, 19 September 2008 at 06:13 PM
I have one comment to make about this product. Adbusters is making an anti-brand shoe, yet selling and mass producing it. It will become popular, which completely defeats the purpose of the shoe. It's a brand already.. black spot.
Posted by: skunk | Monday, 22 September 2008 at 04:49 PM
I think the sales of a product that provides a living wage to people is important and take the shareholders out of the equation and corporate greed and you just might have something there...
We just started Aquarian Telecom a broadband phone company (like the big guys, only better) we dont sell records to nsa, we provide our own support and we 10% to a non profit of your choice and heck, were just good folks.. How do we get the word out? Is there an open source way to let people know of small businesses?
Posted by: Jason B. | Thursday, 09 October 2008 at 05:06 AM
I hate Schnikes. Especially b/c since their logo is ancient and accepted sign for victory, protesting them pitts me psychologically against success. dirty tricksters
Posted by: Anonymous | Sunday, 12 October 2008 at 04:34 AM
It doesn't matter if they are a brand or "anti-brand", the point is they are making an ethical product. It would be great if Blackspot became massively popular because each of us should be supporting companies like this, ones that are earth friendly and cruelty free. Blackspot footwear should be mass produced, providing of course that they stick to their ethical manufacture. If Nike sincerely changed their ways and became and proven ethical company I would support them too.
Posted by: Janelle | Tuesday, 28 October 2008 at 12:11 PM
"i also think there are many, many more people who buy $30, $40, $50 shoes, than those who buy $100 shoes"
Why do you think your shoes are $30, $40, $50 genius? Because they don't take the true cost of the materials and the people involved in their manufacture into account. Whatever helps you justify continuing the consumer cycle.
Posted by: csn | Saturday, 06 December 2008 at 02:33 AM
It'd be nice if all our shoes were made by local artisans with materials produced in an ethical and transparent manner. That said, if you are going to wear shoes (or any thing else), you have to get them somewhere. why not from a source that guarantees that their product was made under fair conditions and that any "profit" (cost over manufacture) is used to support a cause you believe in.
I should I understand the concerns/suspicions of some of the writers here, I share these. Perhaps this obviously less than ideal answer to the simple questions of foot ware and fasion might inspire us to talk aobut what even better alternatives might be possible.
Posted by: Frank | Thursday, 08 January 2009 at 01:08 PM
It looks like a great campaign, a foundation for ethical business. Reminds me of The Venus Project somehow.
Anyway, they have no outlets in India and buying on-line for 100 Canadian Dollars is very expansive for a middle-class Indian. I will be very happy if they can open a store in India. Currently there are 100s of stores in US and Canada but none in India :(
Posted by: arnuld | Thursday, 24 September 2009 at 06:53 AM
So as an owner of these shoes I'd just like to point something out to those who believe 100$ is expensive, etc. While I agree, and originally had reservations in buying the shoe the materials it is made of make it incredibly durable .. a similar pair of shoes going for like wsay 50$ would probably last 6 months MAYBE MAYBE a year if I was sure to be gentle on them. I've had them so far for a year and counting and worn them offroad on many occassions. The only flaw has been some stiching coming loose at the toe cap, which was repaired for 10$.. aside from that the sole is flexible and VERY thick .. wear is barely noticable. Hemp is a tough fabric.
This is adbusters place to clarify, but it seems many do not understand the point of their anti-brand. As far as I can tell the point with the blackspot "brand" is that other designers can, utilising similarly sustainable materials and labour, create their own items and label them blackspot .. receiving the free advertising of adbusters. Try getting your hemp jacket made my non-enslaved adults advertised for by old navy or whatever.
Posted by: David Ingram | Thursday, 29 October 2009 at 07:27 AM
yes! i think what ever..
brand or no brand, ethical options are always welcome...i mostly used dc shoes uk and feel comfortable ..
Posted by: dc shoes uk | Wednesday, 04 November 2009 at 08:07 AM