That crunching sound you hear is me eating my words. When rumours started circulating early last year that Whiteleys, an ugly duckling of a shopping mall in Bayswater's Queensway, would be transformed into a beautiful white swan of a gastrocomplex, I couldn't keep a straight face.
Then Kensington Place's Rowley Leigh moved into the former McDonald's site on the second floor with his busy, buzzy Café Anglais and there was at last something to eat at Whiteleys that wasn't popcorn.
Now there is Food Inc., a kind of free-ranging food hall divided into a number of amoeba-like stalls stretching the length of Whiteleys' massive ground floor.
They include a butcher, fishmonger, fine wine store, traiteur, greengrocer, home made pasta stall, deli, and cheese counter. A quick stroll through will net you anything from fresh razor clams, Highfields Farm meat and Ortiz anchovies to Iberian jamon, Stilton, Poilane bread, and Wild Earth Pinot Noir.
Any resemblance to Harvey Nichols food hall is perfectly understandable, given that Food Inc.'s Dominic Ford set up the original, highly influential Fifth Floor food hall. He can also take credit for a swag of London restaurants including Battersea's Butcher & Grill, and Tamesa and Bincho Yakitori in the Oxo Tower.
With Food Inc., Ford and his business partner Patrick McDonald, bring a lot of colour and movement to what was a fairly empty space (oh no! whatever will happen to Santa's Grotto at Christmastime?) but it is going to take a while to get off the ground. Staff are enthusiastic but it takes more than enthusiasm to know how to price baby beetroot or cut cheese.
Best bet at this stage is the meat section, which benefits from having a real butcher on site, whereas fruit, veg and fish counters are the poorer for not having a greengrocer or fishmonger.
Next up will be the 120-seat Food Inc. Café, followed later in the year by a branch of Alan Yau's popular Busaba Eathai and a second Cha Cha Moon noodle bar. So I'll have plenty to eat along with my words.


Ah Whiteleys. I lived near there in the 1970s. At that time it was a delightful old fashioned department store.
Is the lovely staircase going up to the first floor still
there? Or did they gut the place when they turned it into
a shopping mall?
Posted by: Allan Hawdon | Sunday, 15 June 2008 at 09:54 AM
The staircase is still there. I work for the company that manufactured and fitted the entire Food Inc. installation.
Posted by: Ben Cooksey | Sunday, 05 October 2008 at 11:01 PM