Paul Merrony rose to fame in the dynamic Sydney dining scene of the nineties, winning awards and fans for his boneless crisped pigs trotter, grilled sirloin with sauce Bercy and classic lemon tart at the legendary Cricketers Arms in Paddington and Merrony’s near Circular Quay.
Last seen at Sydney's Bistro 163, he vanished from sight about a year ago. Turns out he has been in London, working with Peter Hall, owner of Soho cafes, Flat White and Milk Bar. Now he and Hall have set up the Giaconda Dining Room on the site of the old sixties diner, Café Giaconda.
It's a traffic-stopping little piece of class in this run-down short-cut-to-nowhere street, with its black carpet, dark wooden-blinded façade and rear wall of wine bottles.
In the galley kitchen ("London's smallest" claims Merrony) is the butcher-aproned man himself, a bit older and no less grizzly. Asked to describe his menu, he calls it "Paul food – a bit of everything".
It is, too, from a sublimely made chicken liver pate as rich as chocolate mousse, to a messy-but-good vitello tonnato, sugar-cured salmon, deep-fried pollack and chips, and ham hock hash with carrots and parsley.
Opening prices – and portions - are generous, and I'm going back for whole roast chicken for two or three for £28 complete with roast potatoes. Merrony is one of those gifted chefs who can do cheap with pride – even a £2.50 salad is immaculately dressed and presented.
The wine list is a buffet of drinkable stuff under £30, and French-speaking Jessica on the floor only adds to the charm.
It's early days, before ice-machines and awnings, but you'd still be wise to get in before the local publishers, book-sellers, Soho crowd, and nostalgic Sydney-siders discover it.
Giaconda Dining Room, Denmark Street, London WC2. Tel: 020 7240 3334
Had lunch there!!
Absolutely delicious and so classy!!!
Posted by: Elbe | Thursday, 12 June 2008 at 04:46 PM
had lunch there last week.. pint of cold guiness on arrival, pigs trotters on a bed of salad to start which was fantastic . a nice combination as the salad makes it a light and healthy dish. then roast rack of lamb with gnocchi on the side ( 8 chops so plenty for two). we had a nice £ 25 bordeaux and still water . too full for desert though was tempted by the eton mess settled for coffee and home made chockies ( i think ) . and all for 65 notes...
Posted by: andy boy | Thursday, 12 June 2008 at 08:48 PM
You lucky citizens of London. Paul Merrony is an exceptional chef. Your gain, my loss. I still go to the reincarnation of Bistro 163 in King Street, Sydney, and the current owners are doing Paul's memory proud. I visit London occasionally but next time I shall definitely go to Giaconda Dining Room. Paul's poached beef fillet at his restaurant at the Circular Quay, years ago, was exceptional. And how well I remember his chicken liver pâté (or was it mousse?) at 163 – a seductive scoop. Everything on his menu was bone-shudderingly brilliant.
Posted by: Diane Wallis | Monday, 16 June 2008 at 12:11 PM
even his poached eggs are perfect ----------LONDON your lucky!hope space is on the floor.
Posted by: sunny sydney | Tuesday, 17 June 2008 at 02:33 AM
I am lucky enough to have been familiar with Paul's restuarant Merrony's and Bistro 163 in Sydney. Both were excellent. Like the diner above, the beef fillet which came with, (and would make anyone like eating) bone marrow, was one of those dishes you never forget eating. As was his fish soup. Amazing. My mouth is watering just thinking of those two dishes. Now it seems that I am lucky to be living in London, having heard of Paul's arrival here with the Giaconda Dining Room - I can not wait to try it, and tell friends about it.
Posted by: Annabelle McEwen | Thursday, 19 June 2008 at 05:14 PM
Had dinner there last night. What a treat! The waitress is an absolute pro - we felt totally looked after without being cossetted, she had everything in hand and was friendly without being Disney. Within seconds we had the table we wanted, a cold beer and some bread with fresh radishes. the menu is interesting: trips, veal, crab, bettroot, pasta...something for the budding gourmand and the theatre goer (slightly off the pre-theatre hamster wheel, thankfully). Who knew an omelette could be so tasty and light? The pasta was delicious. The Alsatian Riesling the waitress suggested (£23) was a great find, matched our dishes well. The lack of piped music and pomp makes this my new favourite. Two courses, all the water and bread you want, a fab French waitress and all for under £50 including 10% service.
Go eat there now.
Posted by: Rob | Friday, 04 July 2008 at 01:36 PM
The restaurant now has a website: http://www.giacondadining.com
Posted by: Dewet | Tuesday, 08 July 2008 at 04:18 PM
Well...I went back! And it was just as good. Sadly, they seem to have added piped music for no reason (isn't the pithy chat of Soho diners enough of a distraction?). Once again the French waitress ruled supreme with faultless service, enough shoo-ing away the odd beggar from diners outside (maybe it's trying too hard to have two-seater tables overloookign Denmark Street roadworks?).
Marvellously fresh tomato and blue cheese salad, great chips (made in beef dripping!) and more great pasta. So good, we're going back on Friday - and we've had to book!
Posted by: Rob (again) | Thursday, 17 July 2008 at 10:02 AM
Oh dear. Having been several times and recommended this place to colleagues, associates and friends, it had to go wrong.
I booked a table for last night (Wednesday; who has to book for a Wednesday?) and turned up on time to find the table wasn't ready. Fair enough, some people take longer over coffee than others.
We decamped to a nearby bar and awaiting the promised call when our table was ready. I rang back at 9pm. Still no table.
Why did they take my booking for 8.30pm? I had even offered to dine later if they were busy, to ensure me and my friend (new to the restaurant) could get in.
Annoying. Especially as two sets of diners in there last night were there on my recommendation!
Giaconda: take better care of your customers, regular and new.
Posted by: Rob (again) | Thursday, 18 September 2008 at 12:53 PM
Sorry Rob
You are so right.
All I can say is "Human error"
I can not be there all the time to rectify these problems.
But we made a mistake and accidentally gave your table to a booking that turned up early.
I will not start making excuses as you are not interested in that.
I would very much like to invite you and your disappointed guest to the GDR as my special guest.
Please phone me if you still care, as we do really very much care about "ALL" our customers "ALL" the time at The Giaconda Dining Room
Regards a very Humble sorry GDR
Posted by: Tracey Mrs Giaconda | Thursday, 18 September 2008 at 08:56 PM
I have been calling the restaurant all day to try to make a booking and I keep getting a selection of voice mail messages - sometimes diverting, sometimes a pre recorded message and sometimes an Aussie guy telling me I can't leave a message due to 'unprecedented demand'
I would very much like to make a booking, but you can't book through the restaurant's website either.
Does anyone have any ideas?
It's for a special occasion and I don't want to miss out.
Posted by: Bev Fearis | Wednesday, 05 November 2008 at 04:12 PM
Hi Bev,
Sorry that you've had trouble getting thru but we've had to close until the 11th November, as last weekend I broke my elbow cycling home.
We have been frantically trying to call everyone to let them know - hence the busy phone lines.
As of the 11th November we are doing a "one-armed chef menu" - lunches only - it'll be a very limited menu - so if you can come with an open mind you'll have a good time.
We'll reopen with our regular "two-handed chef menu" on the 5th of January 2009.
All the best
Paul
Posted by: paul merrony | Friday, 07 November 2008 at 02:27 PM
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