First of all, why Pescara? Because you can’t afford the Italian Riviera or the Amalfi coast but you can afford Abruzzo. Because it’s a seaside resort for Italians more than for rich foreigners. Because Wayne and Coleen Rooney didn’t get married there. Because there are 10 miles of sandy beaches lined with Hawaiian umbrellas and sun-loungers, bars, cafes and nightclubs. Because the local Mokambo and Saquella coffees are excellent, the local Trebbiano is chilled, and the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is affordable. Because it’s 2 ½ hours from London as Ryanair flies, and because you can get a room at the splendid four-star Hotel Esplanade with beach views for €150, and you can hire of your very own beach umbrella, two sun-loungers and a deckchair for less than €20 day. And because ‘si mangia bene’ - you can eat very, very well in Pescara.
Lido Beach
Dragging yourself away from the sand isn’t easy, but
it’s worth it for the small, freshly baked pizzette (pictured) at ‘Lido Beach’. I
love how they can mass-produce tiny pizzette with just a smear of
tomato and a hint of cheese in non-stick trays of 24, without them
tasting junky or fried. Wrapped in a sheet of paper and eaten, folded
in half, in the hands, it’s the perfect beachside lunch with a cold
beer. Closed in winter.
Lungomare G Matteotti 118, Pescara Tel: +39 085 4217077
Il Cortile
Most restaurants in Pescara are old, dark, cosy and
traditional. Il Cortile is brand spanking new, light, minimalist and
modern. There are pots of fresh herbs at the end of every table,
shelves of local Valentini olive oil, six pasta varieties hand-made in
the kitchen every day, and eight local wines. The menu showcases the
best of Abruzzo, from fine salumi and caciotta cheese to arrosticini,
skewers of the famous local lamb, grilled and wrapped in a cone of
paper (€10 for 10). Unusually for this fish-or-meat town, Il Cortile is
also a right treat for vegetable-lovers.
Via delle Caserme 95, Pescara. Tel: +39 085 9151626
La Polena
One of the best fish restaurants in town, awkwardly
placed close to the Pescara river. The draped and candled décor is
1970s tragic, but the pasta and fish dishes are terrific. You
absolutely have to start with pesce crudi, a selection of 15
different variations on raw fish featuring a whole lobster, scampi,
prawns, and more that will blow you out of the water. Share one between
two for €40, then skimp on the rest of the meal. Service is
exceptionally good.
Piazza della Marina 2, Pescara Tel: +39 085 66007
Cantina di Jozz
More of a banquet than a meal, this is ‘slow
food’ done with much care and expertise in a series of arched,
white-washed dining rooms; the oldest restaurant in town, apparently.
Choose a Montepulciano from the shelf and give yourself up to
Fabrizio Cichella’s multi-course extravaganza - a little antipasti, a
thick soup (lentils, chickpeas, peas, barley, beans), a risotto, a
lasagne, and then a main course of roast mountain lamb and sweet, young
porchetta, with everything served, carved or dished up from a tableside
trolley. Go hungry.
Via delle Caserme 61, Pescara Tel: +39 085 690383
Caffe Venezia
Sometimes it seems the entire town is here,
scooping up colourful gelati, sipping Illy coffee, or kissing over
girly papaya cocktails. I was sitting there one day when a dark-haired
bride came in, all in white, knocked back a quick espresso and left
again, to loud cheers. With its Venetian chandeliers, perfect little
cakes and pastries, great wines by the glass, and indoor-outdoor
seating, it’s irresistible. A stuzzichini platter famously comes free
with every cocktail, piled high with little tramezzini sandwiches,
local prosciutto, pizzette, frittata and arancini rice balls. It’s very
tempting to just order another cocktail and cancel the dinner
reservation elsewhere.
Viale Regina Margherita 16, Pescara Tel: +39 085 2058661
Taverna 58
The first thing that hits your table at Pescara’s most
famous traditional taverna is a huge antipasti platter that includes
prosciutto from Torano, salami from Vasto, coppa from Teramo, raw milk
cheese from Rivisondoli, pecorino Marcetto and a house-made duck pate.
Follow up with stuffed rolled veal, braised Majella mutton or wild
boar, poacher’s style, for a very typical and very good Abruzzese
experience in the heart of the old town.
Corso Manthone 46, Pescara. Tel: +39 085 690724
Bar Camplone
Camplone is a pasticceria, café, American bar, lunch
restaurant, and a significant gelato stop, famous for its fresh fruit
flavours. Stop in for your breakfast cornetto (croissant) and coffee,
and your afternoon gelato, especially the melone, fragola (strawberry)
and limone (limone) flavours.
Corso Umberto I, 133, Pescara Tel: +39 085 389148
Pescara Market
Pick up local cherries, peaches, and a few
porchetta rolls for lunch. La signora will carve the still-warm roast
pork to order, stuff it into panini and top it with crisp crackling for
around €3 a roll. Yet another Pescara bargain.
Via Orazio, (near Piazza Garibaldi in the old town)
La Paranza
La Paranza is the most serious of the fish restaurants
along the seaside. Only the blue-suited local business leaders get the
prized outdoor tables, but all tables have sea views, and the kitchen
does simple, straightforward things with very fresh local fish.
Marinated octopus, linguine alle vongole, and freshly grilled fish
Pescarese style (very lightly crumbed), all go swimmingly with Sabatino
di Properzio’s delicious La Valentina Trebbiano.
Lungomare Matteotti 62, Pescara. Tel: +39 085 27914
Locanda Manthone
Fiercely Abruzzese, this popular ‘land’
restaurant (as opposed to seafood) in the old town combines the very
best of local produce and locally produced wines. It’s professional,
well-run, and takes its wines as seriously as its food. Other
specialties include local snails, grilled lamb from the nearby national
park, and burrata-stuffed ravioli with truffles.
Corso Manthone 58, Pescara. Tel: +39 085 4549034


THE RESTAURANT LIDO BEACH WAS IT AT ONE TIME CALLED "IL LIDO" ON THE LUNGOMARE , THE AVENUE STRETCHING ALONG THE SEA, OVERLOOKING THE BEAUTIFUL BEACH. I HAVE A BOOK CALLED "FOOD AND MEMORIES OF ABRUZZO" AND MENTIONS THE
LIDO CAFFE IN PESCARA. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THIS IS THE ONE. THANK YOU ADRIAN
Posted by: adrian zaccardi | Tuesday, 27 January 2009 at 11:15 PM
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Posted by: ishvqz wgsh | Tuesday, 17 March 2009 at 09:45 AM
We love the cafe Venezia- we have a small house in Le Marches, the neighbouring ' county'' so to speak, which is beautiful. However, if we go to collect someone from the airport in the town we always make a detour for some delicious coffee! We enjoy soaking up the atmosphere and love the buzz of the people around us. Go at all costs, it's quite delicious in every way at all times of the day!
Posted by: Kate gill | Thursday, 11 June 2009 at 01:05 PM