Eat: Ten Great Tastes of New York, No. 1
Pork belly steamed buns at Momofuku Ssam Bar.
So how do platters of country ham with sourdough baguette and sea salt butter sit next to Korean-style lettuce wraps (ssams) and crisp pig's head torchon? Very easily, at David Chang's eclectic/ethnic East Village Momofuku Ssam bar.
The server tells me "this is how the chef sees the future of American dining"; a city-smart mix of farmer's market, Korean, offal and crudo with lots of sake and a let-me-at-it wine list, in a funky no-reservations space with a long bar, share tables and loud music.
David Chang, Uncle Ssam needs you. Little rice cakes tossed with spicy pork and crisp shallots are irresistibly glutinous, and lemongrass pork sausage is a treat, wrapped in soft lettuce and dipped into fish sauce, but the steamed buns take the cake. Soft, steamy, white "silver bread" baps enclose slabs of melting, juicy, belly pork, hoisin sauce, spring onion and cucumber, with chilli sauce on the side to squirt on top (two for US$9). I want them NOW.
Momofuku Ssam Bar, 207 2nd Avenue, New York. Tel: 00 1 212 254 3500
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