The Independent's fourteen-part Guide to Love & Sex has been making me feel quite hungry. Big themes such as Attraction, Seduction and Consummation always make me think of what to have for dinner.
Until today, when I note that they have dealt with the touchy-feely subject of aphrodisiacs. There they go again, listing all manner of foods you wouldn't want to eat – epidemium, otherwise known as Horny Goat Weed, among them. Try offering your loved one some yohimbe bark, or rhodiola, or Chinese ginseng. Then try watching them run screaming from the room.
But at least they list oysters. Now oysters will do it every time. Yep, twelve times out of twelve. And for my money, the most desirable oyster dish in the world was invented by Marco Pierre White, back in the days when he was generally regarded (by women, if not by Gordon Ramsay) as the sexiest chef in the world.
His Tagliolini of Oysters with Caviar was created at his groundbreaking Harvey's restaurant in Wandsworth (now Chez Bruce), and featured in his 1990 book White Heat. It combined just-plumped oysters with a silky beurre blanc, silky pasta, buttery cucumber and caviar, and it was a wondrous thing.
My wife, food writer Jill Dupleix, later simplified the recipe for her book New Food (out of print, so it's not a plug) because she wanted to do the first cookbook in the world with the word "Sex" in the index.
Here's her version:
Open a dozen fresh oysters,
and strain their juices into a bowl. Clean and gently warm the shells.
Cut half a cucumber into very fine matchstick strips. Cook a few finely
chopped shallots in butter until soft, add a few spoonfuls of fish
stock and the oyster juices, and boil until reduced by half. Add the
cucumber strips, some cooked strands of tagliolini or angelhair pasta
and a touch of cream. Over gentle heat, warm the oysters very briefly
in the sauce for about 30 seconds. Arrange the warmed oyster shells on
a bed of watercress. Twirl the pasta on a fork and place a little nest
of pasta in each shell. Top with an oyster and cucumber, then spoon the
sauce over the top. Top with caviar (real, salmon or avruga, depending
on your ethics and resources). This serves two, naturally.


Sounds delicious! I must try it. Terry, I'm visiting Syndey Fish Market on Saturday enroute from Macau to Vanuatu! I think it's pretty definite that oysters will be on the menu!
Cheers!
Liz
Posted by: Liz Thomas | Friday, 19 September 2008 at 02:51 AM
Sorry, it's Sunday, we fly on Saturday! I hope it's open on Sundays as I am hoping to write a story on it.
L
Posted by: Liz Thomas | Friday, 19 September 2008 at 02:53 AM
If you want terific oysters and seafood then don't go any further than Ramsgate in kent and my wife's Surin Thai restaurnat: www,surinrestaurant.co.uk
Surin is recommended by The Observer and Indy as one of the best Thai restaurnats in Europe. The latest Good Food Gudie details the terrific seafood. Try the seabass with lime juice!
Tim
Posted by: tim garbutt | Tuesday, 23 September 2008 at 03:26 PM