Charcuterie at Bar Boulud
What to order? The pate grand-mere with chicken liver, pork and cognac, the rabbit rillettes, the famed fromage de tete, or the house made saucisson sec de Lyon?
I'm sitting up at the white oak bar at the recently opened Bar Boulud, staring at the vast terrines, galantines and pates before me, when I hear Miss Piggy's words in my ear: never eat more than you carry.
Daniel Boulud of New York's ultra-luxe Daniel restaurant was always going to put on some great charcuterie for his first wine bar/bistro, a modern interpretation of the old bouchon of his native Lyon. But by going straight to the man rated the world's finest charcutier, Parisian Gilles Verot, he has exceeded his own brief.
Named Charcutier of the Year by the Guide Pudlowski and awarded the French Ministry of Agriculture's Ordre du Mérite Agricole, Verot has installed his star protégé Sylvain Gasdon in Bar Boulud's dedicated charcuterie kitchen.
Miss Piggy notwithstanding, I order the
charcuterie sharing platter for US$22, getting all of the above on the
one platter, along with hot toast, cornichons, relishes (the only
things not made by the charcutier, and rather boring) and mustards.
Flavours are deep, rich and singular, with each texture and taste
distinct from the next; a celebration of artisanal expertise. It is all
so good, I consider ordering the same again.
Miss Piggy? Hah. Never listen to a pig in lipstick.
A full review of Bar Boulud appears in the New Review, Independent on Sunday, 14 September, 2008.
Bar Boulud, 1900 Broadway, New York. Tel: 00 1 212 595 0303
Where can I find the first 9 reviews please?
Posted by: Sally Chase | Saturday, 09 May 2009 at 06:39 PM