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Sunday, 12 October 2008

Eat: A roe by any other name...

Scalloptierrabrindisa By Terry Durack

We must put an end to the gastronomic censorship around us, and force our chefs to leave the heads on fish, the skin on fillets, the fat on brisket, the tentacles on squid, and above all, the roe on scallops. Why eat just the white, meaty "scallop" (which is really just the adductor muscle) and not the roe, with its vibrant coral colour, richly creamy texture and delicate "seafood-mousse" flavour?

This, for instance, is the hand-dived scallop starter squaring up to be the signature dish at the new Tierra Brindisa in London's Soho, reviewed today in the IoS.

Chef José Pizarro knows just when to leave well enough alone and when to make more of his smartly sourced ingredients. So he leaves the scallop on the shell and the roe on the scallop, but dusts the lot with a scattering of garlic and chilli, gives it a quick burst of heat, and sends it out as a tapa for £5.25 with a twirl of cress and furls of crisped Iberico ham on top. As you can see from the pretty picture, it's as pretty as a picture.

Tierra Brindisa, 46 Broadwick Street, London W1. Tel: 020 7534 1690

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Comments

Could not agree more. The roe is the best part.
Liz

Delicious food and relaxed atmosphere too.
My wife and me love it very much

I adore the roe, and it contrasts so beautifully with the scallop I don't understand why it was ever shunned.

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roe is a tasty dish i would like to order to roe....
and i want to test it..

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