Apparently Jane Grigson said it first, in her 1973 book Jane Grigson's Fish Cookery. After cooking, "throw away any mussels that refuse to open". And that was that – her command has been slavishly followed ever since by food writers and home cooks around the world.
But the late Mrs Grigson may have been wrong. Writing in Australia's Good Weekend magazine, scientist and commentator, Dr Karl S Kruszelnicki claims Australians waste 370 tonnes of perfectly good seafood every year by following her advice.
Kruszelnicki cites Australian fisheries biologist, Nick Ruello, who, while working on a report for Seafood Services Australia, cooked and ate more than thirty batches of mussels. During these tests he found that 11.5 per cent of the mussels refused to open during normal cooking time. After forcing them open with a knife, he found that each and every one of them was adequately cooked and perfectly safe to eat.
One piece of advice that still holds water, however, is to discard any open mussels that don't close up tightly again when tapped or rapped together before cooking. If they don't respond by closing, they are dead, and if they're dead, they're not fresh enough to eat and should be ditched.
When cooked, however, the heat affects the adductor muscles that keep the two halves of the shell stuck together, denaturing their proteins so they virtually disintegrate, or come unstuck from the shell. Even if the adductor muscles refuse to bow to the heat, says Dr Karl, the meat is still safe to eat.
I'm cooking mussels tonight, with cider, leeks and bacon. If this turns out to be my last blog, then please revert to Mrs Grigson's advice.
I've always forced open mussels that stayed shut when cooking them at home. In restaurants it's too much bother.
Posted by: Chris | Monday, 27 October 2008 at 12:44 PM
good luck.
Posted by: whelan | Monday, 27 October 2008 at 03:28 PM
One time, I encountered a large mussel which refused to open upon cooking. I opened it with a knife and found a live badger inside. The badger looked at me and said "Mike, please don't open mussels which don't want to be opened". And that was that.
Posted by: Mike Badger | Monday, 27 October 2008 at 04:33 PM
So good to have that from a scientist Terry. I've been eating the ones that don't open for years - hate waste - and never a problem.
Posted by: John Lethlean | Thursday, 30 October 2008 at 01:14 AM
"One time, I encountered a large mussel which refused to open upon cooking. I opened it with a knife and found a live badger inside. The badger looked at me and said "Mike, please don't open mussels which don't want to be opened". And that was that."
Mike you made me laugh to death!!!!!!!!
I tried to open closed mussels once and I wans't able to...so I think the best thing to do is not to try to force them open. The best ones (as taste is concerned), actually are the ones you can eat with no problem.
Enjoy mussels!
Posted by: Laureen | Monday, 03 November 2008 at 08:37 AM
I simply love them, open or closed I love them all!
Posted by: Melanie | Monday, 03 November 2008 at 05:17 PM
Nutrition highlights
Mussel: Calories: 69 Protein: 20g Carbohydrate: 6.3g Total Fat: 3.8g Fiber: 0.0g
Excellent source of: Selenium (76mcg), and Vitamin B12 (20mcg)
Good source of: Zinc (2.3mg), and Folate (64mcg)
Foods that are an “excellent source” of a particular nutrient provide 20% or more of the Recommended Daily Value. Foods that are a “good source” of a particular nutrient provide between 10 and 20% of the Recommended Daily Value.
Mussels are not a source of omega-3 fatty acids.
Reference http://www.truestarhealth.com/Notes/1839009.html
Posted by: matt | Tuesday, 04 November 2008 at 10:25 AM
Actually they need very little cooking:
place them in the bottom of a large pan with a small amount of liquid and turn up the heat to steam them. As soon as the shells start gaping open, you know they are ready. Don't overcook them or you'll end up with rubbery flesh. Discard any that fail to open fully. You don't have to force them to open!!
This is the best way to try them.
Posted by: Rebecca | Wednesday, 05 November 2008 at 05:09 PM
Actually they need very little opening. Small ones are delightful eaten shell-on. With a glass of champagne to dissolve the shards, in-stomach.
Posted by: azzerr | Thursday, 04 December 2008 at 04:01 PM
I had a mussel in a pub this weekend that was full of sludge and smelled of sewage.The chef assured me that I would not be ill,having eaten the rest of them that had been around it.I still feel ill thinking about it.Help
Posted by: hilary | Monday, 02 February 2009 at 08:51 PM