I don't DO horses, so when invited recently to a polo lesson and wine-tasting by a leading Argentinian winery and Gaucho Restaurants, I did a deal with my horse-mad wife. If she did the polo lesson, I'd drink the wine. As negotiations go, it was so successful I feel that had I been in charge of the current bail-out scheme, the world economy would be steaming along nicely by now.
So we gathered at the picturesque Ham Polo Club in Richmond for coffee, croissants and chukkas, then segued down the Thames to the sunny terrace of Gaucho Richmond for ceviche and an excellent grilled ribeye steak. Accompanying the food were the latest releases from Familia Zuccardi, one of Mendoza's largest and most innovative family-run wineries. (Among other things, it has a small experimental vineyard at which 35 new grape varieties are being developed).
Wine-maker Jose Alberto Zuccardi's enthusiasm and generosity meant ever more interesting bottles were opened for trying, including a refreshing and lightly floral Santa Julia Syrah Rose 2008 and the 2005 Zuccardi Zeta, an intense, powerful Malbec/Tempranillo blend. This deadly serious wine is on Gaucho's wine list at £102, but I was interested to see that such a drinkable rose (make a note for next summer) sells at Somerfield for less than five quid.
But the big surprise was a chilled sparkling red made by José's son, Sebastian Zuccardi. With its gentle sparkle, rich colour, and hints of spice and dried fruit, the 2005 Alma 4 Sparkling Bonarda took me right back to the so-called "Sparkling Burgundies" I learned to adore in Australia. While Australian sparkling reds are generally made with Shiraz (Syrah), the Alma 4 uses Bonarda Piemontese, a red Italian grape that is the second most planted variety in Argentina, having only recently been overtaken by Malbec. The Bonarda grape produces wines that are generally fruitier and lighter-bodied with light tannins, moderate acidity and lovely, rounded plum and cherry notes, all good stuff. But when are you meant to drink the stuff? I nominate Christmas Day, when a chilled sparkling red makes the perfect festive wine, teaming beautifully with turkey, ham, duck and even the Christmas pudding.
Alma 4 Sparkling Bonarda from Familia Zuccardi is £23 a bottle take-home, from the Cavas de Gaucho (open 10am-6pm daily), at Gaucho Piccadilly, 19 Swallow Street London W1 Tel: 020 7734 4040 www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk/wineboutique
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