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Zac Posen reviving Charles James: too close a fit, perhaps leaves little room for growth, Fashion

Zac Posen reviving Charles James: too close a fit, perhaps leaves little room for growth

So Zac Posen – largely known as purveyor of expansive, expensive ballgowns – is reputed to be helming Harvey Weinstein’s revival of the Charles James label – largely known for its expansive, expensive ball gowns. The perfect fit, right? Well, certainly a close fit. There’s a synchronicity between Posen’s output and that of James that has frequently been highlighted. He was the obvious choice to discuss the designer around the Metropolitan Museum show “Beyond Fashion.” He did so at the Met itself, with exhibition co-curator Jan Glier Reeder, as well as in an avalanche of articles (including one for me). He’s also the obvious choice to revive the label. Doesn’t mean he’s the best choice, though.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Tuesday, 3 March 2015 at 2:43 pm

“Viva la Mamma.” Every day is mother’s day, for Dolce and Gabbana, Fashion

“Viva la Mamma.” Every day is mother’s day, for Dolce and Gabbana

It isn’t Mothering Sunday until May in Italy – at least, not officially. But Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana care naught for that kind of stuff. The Sunday of every Milanese womenswear week is traditionally Dolce day, but this time they made it mother’s day, too. “Viva La Mamma” they called their show – in English, it translates oddly to “Hurray for Mum” – less Italian romance, more the post-war jolly hockey sticks Enid Blyton school of British children’s literature.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Sunday, 1 March 2015 at 3:36 pm

India’s Budget wins on the economy but is weak on inspiration, The Foreign Desk

India’s Budget wins on the economy but is weak on inspiration

Arun Jaitley, India’s finance minister, had three main tasks in his budget speech that he delivered on Saturday, the traditional February 28 date. One was to manage the government finances, reduce spending deficits, and curb inflation. The second was to boost infrastructure, private sector investment and growth, and introduce other reforms.
The third, and politically the [...]

By | The Foreign Desk | Sunday, 1 March 2015 at 2:53 pm

Goodbye, prints charming: Peter Dundas bows out at Emilio Pucci, Fashion

Goodbye, prints charming: Peter Dundas bows out at Emilio Pucci

Peter Dundas ended his tenure at the house of Emilio Pucci pretty much exactly how he started it. We were in the Palazzo Serbelloni, the gilded Milanese mansion-house we biannually cram into, cheek to jowl, to watch Dundas’s prints, and furs, and beaded dresses. He even had a few of the models from back in 2009, Lily Donaldson, Iris Strubegger, some others. The clothes weren’t tremendously different either. Dundas established his signature at Pucci early on, and ran with it.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Saturday, 28 February 2015 at 11:02 pm

Her Outdoors: Do you have Britain’s best allotment?, Her Outdoors

Her Outdoors: Do you have Britain’s best allotment?

Why do people have allotments? Is it the joy of growing food? The escape from the daily grind? The urge to create something beautiful out of nature? Or – and in my experience this is usually in most cases – all three? And what about the competitive streak of many plot-holders? My competitive urges come [...]

By | Her Outdoors, Notebook | Saturday, 28 February 2015 at 8:50 pm

In Milan, a philosophical bent from Moschino, Fendi and Fausto Puglisi, Fashion

In Milan, a philosophical bent from Moschino, Fendi and Fausto Puglisi

How do you define the here-and-now? Well, it’s tricky. In fact, as the Milanese collections unfold, it’s increasingly proving impossible. The contemporary is the untimely, said Roland Barthes – the fact he said it on a Gucci press release was quite something. What Barthes means is that the present is impossible to pin down – as soon as you say it, it’s passed.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Friday, 27 February 2015 at 7:49 pm

Crowds at Lahore Lit Fest ignore bomb risks and raise hopes for Pakistan’s future, Arts

Crowds at Lahore Lit Fest ignore bomb risks and raise hopes for Pakistan’s future

The hope that one day Pakistan will escape from the clutches of jihadist terrorism, corrupt politicians and an over-bearing army came alive last weekend at the Lahore Literary Festival, where mostly young audiences averaging 25,000 people a day applauded criticisms and wider worries about the functioning of the country as well as enjoying other sessions [...]

By | Arts, The Foreign Desk | Friday, 27 February 2015 at 7:22 am

Vicars and tarts, fear and clothing: Thomas Tait, Mary Katrantzou, Marques’Almeida and Giles, Fashion

Vicars and tarts, fear and clothing: Thomas Tait, Mary Katrantzou, Marques’Almeida and Giles

If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, philosophers frequently question if it makes a sound. I pose you this: if we watch a fashion show, but it’s in the dark, did we really see it at all? Would be nice if such a question remained philosophical – but Thomas Tait decided to materialise it as an illogical staging concept for his autumn/winter 2015 show on Monday afternoon.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Tuesday, 24 February 2015 at 11:32 pm

Tom Ford’s Hollywood fashion epic – live! Sort of., Fashion

Tom Ford’s Hollywood fashion epic – live! Sort of.

To avoid the publicity disaster of clashing with the 87th annual Academy Awards ceremony on Monday – at least, when it comes to the all-important column inch – the savvy designer Tom Ford (who, please remember, was once up for an Oscar himself) shifted his show to Los Angeles. He’d already decided to do it last October; he told me he was going to pack his front row with celebrities and have a red carpet laid out front.

Tom Ford is a man of his word, and of bloody-minded conviction. At about three this morning, GMT, he did just that.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Saturday, 21 February 2015 at 1:32 pm

Marc Jacobs gives us Vreeland, with pizzaz, Fashion

Marc Jacobs gives us Vreeland, with pizzaz

I couldn’t watch the autumn/winter 2015 Marc Jacobs show – theoretically, I was on an early flight back to London to attend the memorial of Professor Louise Wilson. In actual fact, I wound up sat in the airport watching it unfold on a computer screen, departure delayed.

It was a great show. The kind you regret not seeing.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Saturday, 21 February 2015 at 2:39 am

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