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Junya Watanabe and Balenciaga round it out, in Paris, Fashion

Junya Watanabe and Balenciaga round it out, in Paris

Context does a lot for fashion. I’m not just talking about the world outside the tent, or salon, or wherever designers have positioned their gilt chairs for this season, but about what other designers are showing in their salon/garage/specially-erected plexiglass cube (depends on budget). Of course, part of the dance of fashion is solipsism. Or maybe megalomania. It’s rare you see designers at each others’ shows: Tim Blanks and the team of style.com were trying to interview Joseph Altuzarra, attending the Balenciaga show designed by his friend Alexander Wang, but were constantly interrupted by well-wishers. Most said something along the lines of “I didn’t expect to see you here!”

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Saturday, 7 March 2015 at 12:57 pm

New York Fashion Week Winter 2015: Growing up is hard to do, at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang and Jason Wu, Fashion

New York Fashion Week Winter 2015: Growing up is hard to do, at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang and Jason Wu

Growing pains. How’s that for a take-away from the opening leg of the New York Fashion Week shows? On the one hand, it’s a decidedly positive thing. At least there’s fresh talent gestating here. Alexander Wang’s business was founded a decade ago this year; Altuzarra launched his first handbag, an obvious development to emerge since the designer sold a minority stake to Kering in 2013. Oh, and Jason Wu had fine jewellery (he’s done the bag stuff before), as he also bagged a major investor last year via equity firm Interluxe. He’s scouting real estate for his first Manhattan store.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Tuesday, 17 February 2015 at 1:01 am

Pre-collections are collections too: last resorts from Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Balenciaga and JW Anderson, Fashion

Pre-collections are collections too: last resorts from Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Balenciaga and JW Anderson

Fashion is demanding. Especially now we’re working on a four-season system instead of two. That’s my take-away thus far from the pre-collections. Actually, let’s stop that ridiculous terminology straight away. If Nicolas Ghesquiere’s excellent show last month in Monaco proved anything, it was that pre-collections are collections too.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Friday, 13 June 2014 at 6:33 pm

Paris when it fizzles: Balenciaga, Rochas, Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier, Fashion

Paris when it fizzles: Balenciaga, Rochas, Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier

Paris fashion week is the great consolidator, the grounder of the fashion season. It rounds off the ideas we’ve seen emerging in the other three fashion capitals, adds a few more of its own and a distinctly Gallic flourish, and ties the whole thing up in a fancy, florid Frenchy bow. It adds the punctuation. It makes the whole thing make sense. It does usually at least. This season, however, Paris seems, somehow, subdued. It’s throwing up questions rather than answers, and bucking the trends. It’s an intriguing turn of events.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Sunday, 2 March 2014 at 11:23 am

Springtime in Paris – via Dior, Chalayan, Rochas, Rick Owens and Balenciaga, Fashion

Springtime in Paris – via Dior, Chalayan, Rochas, Rick Owens and Balenciaga

The third day of my Paris fashion week – the fourth overall – has just finished. Raf Simons showed his latest collection for Christian Dior this afternoon. The major editors are out in force. The week has truly begun.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Friday, 27 September 2013 at 9:41 pm

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