Time is something I’ve been thinking an awful lot about during the London leg of the spring/summer 2015 collections.
Actually, that’s a lie. Because there’s no time to think. Or to eat, breathe, go to the toilet. Those kind of things. It makes you long, a little, for New York, for the wide open spaces of their fashion week calendar (at least, my fashion week calendar). In London, every hour, on the hour, there’s something to see.
Miu Miu gets trippy, Mary Katrantzou loves letters, Roland Mouret throws up. A last look at pre-spring 2015
Miuccia Prada enjoys having the final word. Perhaps that’s why she stole the pre-spring thunder, pitching up in Paris to show her Miu Miu collection on the eve of the haute couture collections and close the season. She does the same at the ready-to-wear, after all. On the other hand, maybe it was her acknowledgement of the new power of pre – the first ever, stand-alone Miuccia Prada-manned cruise show. It’s been dribbled into the menswear shows before, but this was a different thing entirely.
Referencing is an odd thing in fashion. After all, there’s virtually nothing that hasn’t been done before when it comes to clothes. It shows: in London, we saw heavy homage paid – read: rip-offs made – to Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, and even Valentino. The latter is a sure-fire commercial hit. The former are the latest mood to seize designers, and the all-important stylists who help them pull their collections together. They pull together quite a few collections. Which is perhaps why the results often end up looking old hat. It’s difficult not to start playing fashion train-spotter, trying to pin the collections and editorials down that designers have been referencing. It’s difficult not to the point the finger, to shout it out.
It’s a bit Kraftwerky chez Christopher Kane – the first menswear shown for the spring 2014, images released 24 hours before London Collections: Men officially kicks off. Future fantastic.
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