The consistent and the insistent: Thom Browne, Hood by Air, Diane von Furstenberg and Altuzarra, in New York
The inconsistency of New York infuriates some. I find it quite energising. It’s difficult to write off any designer on the New York schedule – you never know when they’re going to pull it out of the bag. Of course, there are a few constants. Shayne Oliver, a relatively recent addition, will challenge convention; the sickly cyclamen and Buck’s Fizz yellow kaftans of Diane von Furstenberg will not.
New York Fashion Week Winter 2015: Growing up is hard to do, at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang and Jason Wu
Growing pains. How’s that for a take-away from the opening leg of the New York Fashion Week shows? On the one hand, it’s a decidedly positive thing. At least there’s fresh talent gestating here. Alexander Wang’s business was founded a decade ago this year; Altuzarra launched his first handbag, an obvious development to emerge since the designer sold a minority stake to Kering in 2013. Oh, and Jason Wu had fine jewellery (he’s done the bag stuff before), as he also bagged a major investor last year via equity firm Interluxe. He’s scouting real estate for his first Manhattan store.
I often wonder what people really want from Victoria Beckham’s label. In fact, that’s rubbish. I know exactly what they want. Shall we be blunt? They want her to fall spectacularly, sensationally flat on her face. They’ve been wanting her to do it since day one, because Beckham has it all and the fashion world loves a bit of schadenfreude.
Fashion isn’t a house of cards – where one ill-judged manoeuvre brings the whole thing tumbling down – but rather a game of Kerplunk!. Meaning, if you twiddle the wrong bit, it makes a lot of noise and you lose a few of your marbles, but the whole thing doesn’t crash to the ground.
That’s what occurred to me when news broke today of Christophe Lemaire’s mutual parting of ways with the French luxury juggernaut Hermès.
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