I’ve been a fan of Francesco Russo ever since he took the helm of the Italian accessories label Sergio Rossi. In fact, unbeknownst to me, I was a fan of him before that, when he designed the Tribute shoe for Yves Saint Laurent back in 2006. Thinking back, that was kind of a defining moment, not just for Russo, but for noughties footwear generally. It was certainly a shoe that launched a million knock-offs.
Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent shows the trickiness of trickle up rather than trickle down, as well as being referential but not reverential. Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel, by contrast, was a masterpiece of really, really great clothes. Simple.
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