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In Rome, poetry in motion and couture as sculpture from Valentino and Azzedine Alaïa, Fashion

In Rome, poetry in motion and couture as sculpture from Valentino and Azzedine Alaïa

The moon hit your eye like a big pizza pie, as they say, at the Villa Aurelia in Rome. It wasn’t amore though, it was Valentino. They were throwing a post-show, post-watershed shindig to celebrate their autumn/winter 2015 haute couture collection, which they’d uprooted from Paris to present in the Italian capital of alta moda. Why? Why not?

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Monday, 13 July 2015 at 12:10 am

Making love and wrapping up – the end of haute couture, at Gaultier, Viktor and Rolf, Valentino and Armani, Fashion

Making love and wrapping up – the end of haute couture, at Gaultier, Viktor and Rolf, Valentino and Armani

The couture is over. Long live the couture. Or something. Do we really think couture is going to live forever? Yes, probably. There is enough financial muscle, enough press still clapping (I hope not sporadically), and enough clients to spuriously justify that there are women who demand dresses entirely made out of pieces of ribbon or microscopic feather flowers. And the clothes, at their best, are extraordinary.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Friday, 30 January 2015 at 1:25 pm

Only anarchists are pretty at Raf Simons, gilded youth at Valentino, Fashion

Only anarchists are pretty at Raf Simons, gilded youth at Valentino

Rules are made to be broken. That’s what we’re all taught in our school days. Well, not so much taught, but you pick it up along the way. Raf Simons certainly has. For his autumn/winter 2015 collection, on the first day of Paris’ men’s shows, he once again latched onto youth, his eternal inspiration. Only this season, like the last, felt like it was Simons’ own misbegotten ways. And, in tune with the season as a whole, that necessitated a trip to the archive, and a flick through the garments that defined his aesthetic.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Thursday, 22 January 2015 at 10:54 am

Couture with clout, by Chanel, Armani, Valentino and Vionnet, Fashion

Couture with clout, by Chanel, Armani, Valentino and Vionnet

The couture schedule, somehow, was packed this past week. Here are a few words on a few shows for the spring/summer 2014 haute couture week, including Vionnet, Chanel, Valentino and Armani.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Thursday, 23 January 2014 at 5:01 pm

Plugging in and manning up for Raf Simons and A/W 2014 menswear, Fashion

Plugging in and manning up for Raf Simons and A/W 2014 menswear

Watching the menswear shows online – as I have been doing over these opening four days of the autumn/winter 2014 Paris collections – is very different to observing them in flesh and fabric.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Saturday, 18 January 2014 at 1:28 pm

Bags of potential: the search for the perfect all-round hold-all, Fashion

Bags of potential: the search for the perfect all-round hold-all

It’s difficult to buy a bag, as a man. Very, very difficult. And it’s not because people aren’t pitching for your cash. Far from it. We featured manbags alongside the glad rags in the men’s fashion special of the Independent Magazine for autumn/winter 2013, because they have grown in visibility and in importance.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Sunday, 20 October 2013 at 10:19 pm

Over-thought, overlooked and afterthoughts. A few more from the French spring/summer 2014 collections, Fashion

Over-thought, overlooked and afterthoughts. A few more from the French spring/summer 2014 collections

Have you ever eaten an eighteen-course French meal and passed out from the exertion? No, me neither. Apparently when they autopsied Louis XIV his stomach was three times the size of an average man. Sometimes it feels a bit like that during Paris fashion week. You feel bloated, stuffed, saturated. It’s with fashion, rather than food. The latter is thin on the ground, bar the ubiquitous croques.

By | Fashion, Fashion Sense | Thursday, 3 October 2013 at 3:49 pm

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